The Italian Grape Varieties

Despite the recent appearance of widely acclaimed wines from international varieties, Italian viticulture as a whole remains firmly wedded to traditional, indigenous varieties, whose number has been estimated at over 2,000. Of the country's 20 most widely planted grapes, only Merlot is an obvious import.

Sangiovese

Sangiovese is Italy's most planted red grape variety, particularly common in central Italy. In 1990 almost 10% of all Italian vineyards were planted with some form of this grape. In its various variations and names (Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile, Morellino), it is the principal vine variety for the fine Tuscan wines. It is also the sole grape variety permitted for Brunello di Montalcino and the base for the blends for Chianti, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano and the vast majority of the "super-Tuscans" (such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia). In addition, it is the main red grape for all of central Italy, widely planted in Umbria (where it gives its best results in the DOCG wines Torgiano and Montefalco), in the Marches (where it is the base of the Rosso Piceno, and an important component of the Rosso Conero), and in Latium.

The vine itself, probably indigenous to Tuscany, is of ancient origin, as the literal translation of its name ("Blood of Jove") suggests. Conventional descriptions of Sangiovese divide the variety into two families: Sangiovese Grosso, to which Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile and Sangiovese di Lamole belong, and Sangiovese Piccolo. The former is generally considered to be superior. Recent efforts have been made to redefine this classification, identifying all the clones which are available.

Sangiovese is slow and late to ripen, which gives a rich, alcoholic and long-lived wine. Over-production tends to accentuate the wine's acidity and lighten its colour. Further difficulties are experienced because of the rather thin skin of the grape; making it susceptible to rot in damp years.

Throughout Tuscany, Sangiovese is now often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, whether for chianti (where Cabernet Sauvignon must not exceed 15%) or Vino da Tavola. The blend is highly successful, producing intense fruit and colour.

Catarratto

Catarratto is a Sicilian white grape variety which is the second most planted single variety in Italy. Catarratto Bianco Lucido, which has a much smaller area under cultivation than Catarratto Bianco Comune, is superior in terms of quality. The variety is planted almost exclusively in the far western province of Trapani and has in the past been much used in the production of Marsala. Today, much of the vine's produce is considered surplus and is either distilled or transformed into grape concentrate.

Trebbiano

Trebbiano is the most common name for the undistinguished Ugni Blanc white grape variety. It is so widely planted in Italy and France that it probably produces more wine than other vine variety in the world. It's more often cited in DOC regulations that another other single variety and may well account for more than a third of Italy's entire DOC white wine production. The wines are generally light, white and crisp. Ugni Blanc's most common use is as a base wine for brandy, which makes use of its low alcohol and relatively high acidity.

Historical references to Trebbiano include Pliny ("vinum trebulanum") and Petrus de Crescenthiis in 1303, making it an ancient vine. Today, Trebbiano's principal varieties are Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano Romagnolo, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano Giallo and Trebbiano di Soave.

Primitivo

Primitivo is a red grape variety grown principally in Apulia. It may have remained relatively obscure had its similarities to Californian Zinfandel not been noticed. Indeed the two varieties have identical DNA. There are varietal DOCs for Primitivo di Gioia and Primitivo di Manduria. Most wines labeled Primitivo are highly alcoholic.

Malvasia

Malvasia (corrupted by the French to "Malvoisie", the English to "Malmsey" and the Germans to "Malvasier") is the name widely used for a complex set of grape varieties. Ancient and of Greek origin, it produces wines high in alcohol, and often, with residual sugar. Most are deeply colored whites but some are, usually light, reds. Malvasia is the Italian corruption of Monemvasia, the southern Greek port which, in the middle ages, was famous for its dessert wines. So important was Malvasia during the time of the Venetian Republic that wine shops in Venice were called "Malvasie".

White Malvasia Bianca, the largest part of production, is widely used throughout Latium, Umbria and Tuscany. The finest dry white varietal Malvasia is made in Friuli, where two DOCs - Collio and Isonzo - exist.

Negroamaro

Often written Negro Amaro, this dark skinned southern Italian grape variety is most common in Apulia and is particularly associated with Salento. Negroamaro means "black, bitter" and is generally used for blending. But it can also be used to produce red wines which require ageing, and some rose wines.

Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a vigorous red grape variety planted over much of central Italy. It is also the name of a Tuscan town which produces the highly ranked Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The two should not be confused! The grape variety is recommended for around a third of Italy's provinces but is most widely planted in Abruzzi, where it is responsible for the often excellent value Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and in the Marches where it is the principal ingredient of reds such as Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno. It may also be called Cordisco, Morellone, Primaticcio and Uva Abruzzi.

Barbera

Barbera is a productive and versatile red grape variety. The Monferrato in Piedmont is frequently sited as the variety's birthplace. Barbera ripens relatively late, after Piedmont's lesser black grape variety, "Dolcetto", although well before the slower "Nebbiolo". Its chief characteristic is its high level of natural acidity even when fully ripe; a distinct advantage in a hot climate. As well as dominating in Piedmont, it also accounts for the majority of vines in Lombardy and in the Colli Piacentini. A "Barbera Sarda" is also grown in Sardinia, where some argue that the local Perricone or Pignatello, is also Barbera.

Large-scale plantings of International varieties - principally French, although there is also some Riesling and Gewürztraminer - are on the whole confined to the country's north east. Scattered plantings of international varieties existing throughout the rest of the country.

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