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The Greek Grape Varieties
Greece is a still an undeveloped source of indigenous, ancient grape varieties of which more than 300 have already been identified. Many of them are used solely for the important table grape or dried fruit industries; and many others in very small quantities on a local basis. The most important Greek grape varieties are:
- Assyrtico
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Assyrtico, or Assyrtiko, is a top-quality white grape variety grown increasingly widely in Greece. Its origins lie on the island of Santorini, and its ability to retain acidity in a hot climate have encouraged successful experimentation elsewhere.
- Rhoditis
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Rhoditis is a slightly pink-skinned grape variety traditionally grown in the Peloponnese. The vine is particularly prone to a powdery mildew and its popularity has waned. It ripens relatively late and keeps its acidity well, even in such hot climates as Ankialos (in Thessaly). It is often blended with Savatiano, particularly when producing retsina.
- Robola
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Robola is a wine and grape variety for which the Ionian Island of Cephalonia is most famous. The distinctive, lemony dry white is made from the grapes which are cultivated exclusively on the island. The wine made from these early ripening grapes is high in acidity and is much prized in Greece. The grape is grown as Rebula in Slovenia and Ribolla (or Ribolla Gialla) in north east Italy.
- Savatiano
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Savatiano is Greece's most common wine grape variety, planted throughout Attica and central Greece. This light-berried vine is exceptionally drought resistant and is the most common ingredient in retsina.
- Moscophilero
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Producing strongly-perfumed white wines, Moscophilero is grown on the high plateau of Mantinia in the Peloponnese where conditions are sufficiently cool and harvest is often delayed. There are strong flavor similarities to Muscat but, at present, the origins of this grape are unknown. Small quantities of fruity, light pink wine are also made from this variety which is increasingly used as a blending ingredient in Greek wines.
- Debina
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Debina is a white grape variety that is used in the lightly sparkling white wines of Zitsa, near the Albanian border. It seems likely that the variety was originally cultivated in Albania. At these altitudes the acidity remains high.
- Agiorghitiko
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Agiorghitiko, also known as Agiorgitieo, Agiorgitiko and St George, is a red grape variety native to Nemea in the Peloponnese. Wines from this area may be made of no other variety. However, it blends well with many other varieties, most notably Cabernet Sauvignon, and can also produce a good-quality rose.
- Limnio
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Limnio is a dark grape variety native to the island of Limnos. It is now also successfully grown in Khalkhidhikhi in north east Greece where full-bodied wines are produced. It is thought that this is the variety which Aristotle called "Lemnia".
- Mandelaria
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A powerful red wine variety, Mandelaria (also called Mandelari) is the speciality of a number of Greek islands, including Crete. The grapes have thick skins and therefore the wine produced is deep colored and high in tannins. It can also produce dry reds such as "Peza".
- Xynomavro
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Xynomavro is a black grape variety grown all over northern Greece as far south as the foothills of Mount Olympus. Its name means "acid black" and the wine can seem harsh when young, although it does mature well. One of the few Greek vine varieties which may not reach full ripeness every year, it is blended to produce "Goumenissa" and used as a base for sparkling wines in the cool, high vineyards of Amindeo.
In addition to these native varieties, a number have been imported, mainly from France. These include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. A few single varietal wines are made using these grapes, but generally they are used to blend with traditional varieties. Indeed, there is a strong lobby within Greece which argues that Greek wine should not be made from international varieties, and any new wine applying for appellation status is likely to encounter difficulties if the principal grapes used are not Greek in origin.
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