The German Grape Varieties

Germany is distinctive as a wine growing region in that its often marginal climate and difficult growing conditions have led it to develop new crossings particularly suited to its needs. Overall, white grapes amount to some 85% of total plantings. The major grape varieties are:

Riesling

The noble grape of Germany and acknowledged as one of the greatest varieties of the world, Riesling accounts for 22% of the total. Most widely planted in prestigious sites in the Rheingau and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, it ripens late, normally between October and early November, and needs careful siting in order to mature properly. No other native variety can approach its great potential to age and its pre-eminence among German vines is testified by the fact that virtually all of the many crossings that have been developed contain the Riesling strain in one form or another. It gives very clean, floral, crisp wines with a fresh acidity. As it ages it can develop a distinctive aroma reminiscent of petrol of diesel fuel.

Müller-Thurgau

Müller-Thurgau was developed in the early 1880s and now amounts to 20% of total plantings. Depending upon the authority followed, it is thought to be a cross between either Riesling and Silvaner, or between two clones of Riesling. The advantage of this grape is that it ripens early, in September; and provided the summer has not been too wet, it is very reliable - even when autumn weather is bad. It is, however, susceptible to rot and frost damage. High in yield, it provides the backbone of the Liebfraumilch blends. It gives a wine of medium acidity, that is flowery with a hint of muscat.

Silvaner

A fading classic, it now only accounts for 8% of plantings and is found in those areas where it has always been the most important if not the sole variety. Silvaner ripens in early October but, except in outstanding sites, tends to produce wines of low acidity and neutral fruit. Most of Germany's finest Silvaner comes from Franken, where Riesling has difficulty in ripening. Here, the variety may also be called "Franken Riesling".

Kerner

Kerner: a grape from the cross between the black Trollinger grape and Riesling. The grape ripens early and is resistant to frost, giving generous yields and wines with much character. Developed in Wurttemberg and only introduced in 1969, it is now widely cultivated, particularly in Rheinhessen and Pfalz. Not often seen as a varietal, it is used in Liebfraumilch blends.

Scheurebe

Scheurebe is a cross between Riesling and Silvaner. Developed in 1916, this variety is late to ripen and needs good siting. Because of its high sugar content, it is particularly suited to the production of late-harvest wines. Scheurebe wine can acquire a very bitter taste if harvesting takes place before the grapes are fully ripe. Particularly fine wines are produced from it in the Pfalz.

Ruländer

Ruländer (more commonly known as Pinot Gris) is at best when grown in warmer vineyard zones and accounts for 3% of total plantings. More than half of these are in the Baden region.

Spätburgunder

Spätburgunder (more commonly known as Pinot Noir) is a late ripening variety in Germany that gives full, fruity wines which are at their best in the Pfalz and Baden regions.

Portugieser

Portugieser accounts for approximately 3% of total plantings. It has early ripening vine which give very high yields and a light, flavorsome wine. An important variety in the Ahr region.

Dornfelder

Dornfelder is a recent arrival, having been created in 1956, and currently accounts for only 1% of planting. The grape has a red-colored flesh and as a result produces wines which are deep in color. It is grown in most German wine regions, especially in Rheinhessen and Pfalz, where results are particularly good.

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