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Sarah Burton & Cold Duck, NZ

© Cloudy Bay
Sarah Burton has been a winemaker at Cloudy Bay, in New Zealand's Marlborough region, since 2009. It was in the '90s that she twigged to the transformative powers of alcohol.

"I grew up in Central Otago on a fruit orchard and when I was a young kid I was surrounded by sweet sherry. My grandparents would always have a sweet sherry before dinner, and my parents would crank into the Miami wine cooler – it’s a New Zealand product that was a sweet, spritzy wine, really cheap, in a cask. It was trashy, but it’s a quintessential New Zealand thing, along with jandals [flip-flops] and the Buzzy Bee [a children’s toy].

My most memorable wine experience stems from that. I was at university and a group of us we were traveling back for the semester. We stopped for fish and chips and cracked open a bottle of Cold Duck, which was made by Montana [now Brancott Estate] back in the day and then re-released in the late '90s. It was more or less the bits and pieces at the bottom of the tank that they put together and bottled. I thought it was delicious.

I was studying biochemistry and law at university and I didn’t have a massive passion for either of these things, [but] I remember tasting Cold Duck and thinking it was great. It made a moment something special. Wine is really cool like that. It’s not necessarily about the wine, it’s what the wine does for a group of friends.

I wasn’t a massive wine drinker, but after that experience I started drinking more and more wine. I got into the five- and ten-dollar sparkling wines; pretty classy.

When I went to university they had moved the drinking age up to 20, so for most of my university life I was underage. So, whenever we had a wine it was pretty memorable because it was a bit naughty and a bit risky.

I don’t think they make Cold Duck anymore and I haven’t seen it again since. If I had it now, it would be pretty miserable, wouldn’t it?

The next moment that I really remember with higher-end products was after I had done a couple of vintages. We had a bottle of Champagne, which, for me, was an amazing thing then. We walked up the Wither Hills in Marlborough with a group of friends and we sat drinking this bottle of bubbly. Now I’m a total addict of Champagne. And at the moment I’m learning to do sabrage. I’ve done it about three or four times now, so I feel like a mini-expert."

As told to Rebecca Gibb

 

 



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    Rod wrote:
    27-Jun-2012 at 23:46:02 (GMT)

    My first wine memory also relates to Cold Duck. As a young fellow aged 20, I had had a very public argument with Sir Dove-Myer Robinson, the Mayor of Auckland, New Zealand's largest city. To settle the air, I invited him to dinner. As the host, it was my duty to order the wine. I didn't know one wine from another, but Cold Duck was being heavily promoted in newspaper advertising, so I ordered it. I shudder now to think that I served such a cheap wine to our squillionaire mayor, but he was very gracious and didn't let on that it was an inappropriate choice!

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