If you want to drink Napa Valley wines, one of the worst places to look is some Napa Valley restaurants.
Oenotri in Napa, for example, has 19 wines by the glass, with only two from Napa Valley, neither of them red.
Meanwhile, local Japanese restaurant Morimoto lists five whites and and five reds from the region out of a total of 23 still wines by the glass.
The valley's most famous restaurant, The French Laundry, does have 15 pages of "domestic reds" on its extensive bottle list. But it has 30 pages of French reds, and of the 25 wines offered by the glass, only three are from Napa Valley.
Bill Dodd, a member of the Napa County Board of Supervisors, recently went to eat oysters at Hog Island Oyster Bar with the mayor of Napa. He wanted a Napa Valley sauvignon blanc, but the extensive white wine list didn't have one.
"We were offended that so many other wines were available and not something from Napa Valley," Dodd said. "When I was in Bordeaux, I can assure you that in the restaurants there, they had Bordeaux wines. Whether it's Chile, Australia, New Zealand, Spain, Italy, when you're in the wine regions, you drink the local wines."
Rex Stults, government relations director for Napa Valley Vintners, thinks some local restaurants are forgetting where their bread is buttered.
"Our whole economy is based on the success of the Napa Valley wine industry," Stults says. "Just in Napa County alone, 46,000 of us are employed in the wine industry. Restaurants, hospitality and everything else thrives because of the Napa Valley wine industry. Restaurants choose to locate here because of our famous name."
There are exceptions to the failure by restaurants to embrace the region's wines: Press in St. Helena serves exclusively Napa Valley wine. But more common are restaurants like Farmstead, which brags of serving local farm-to-table food, yet only about half of its wines (86 out of 167) are from Napa Valley.
In past years, sommeliers have complained about the high alcohol of Napa Valley wines. But that's not universally true or as relevant now, after cool vintages in 2010 and '11, and with the emergence of lower-alcohol small producers like Massican and Matthiasson.
"It's not because we don't have the right wines they need for pairing," Dodd says. "It's because they're overly focused on diversity of regions."
While the vintners organization might want a higher local percentage, some local winemakers are perfectly happy to drink something else when they go out.
"I like tasting wines from all over the world," says Napa winemaker Matt Buoncristiani. "It broadens our knowledge."
* NB: This article has been updated to show Morimoto's wines by the glass rather those on its main wine list.