The Central and South Eastern European Grape Varieties

The most predominant of all the central and south eastern European grape varieties is the Welschriesling, a variety best known for medium dry white wines. The Welschriesling should not be confused with the Rhine Riesling: it is an entirely different variety, and a number of eastern European countries, such as Bulgaria, grow both. European Community regulations state that the varietal description "Riesling" must be given to "Rhine Riesling" only. Welschriesling must, therefore, be described on labels under its full name or one of the regional variations (such as Laski Rizling in Slovenia, Croatia and Serbia, and Olasz Rizling in Hungary).

Switzerland

The main area of Swiss wine production includes the north shore of Lake Geneva (the Vaud region). Here mainly white wines are made from the Chasselas grape, which is known locally as Dorin or Perlan. Red and Rose wines are also made from Gamay. In the upper valley of the River Rhone, wines of the Valais region again use Chasselas, which is here known as Fendant. A number of local varietals are also popular such as Amigne, Arvine and Humagne. Pinot Noir is grown in Neuchatel and Thurgau, and Merlot in Ticino.

Austria

85% of land under vine in Austria is planted with white grape varieties. Just over a third of the total is Grüner Veltliner, a grape which produces wines which are best drunk young, without any cask-ageing, and when dry. The next most popular plantings are Müller-Thurgau and Welschriesling, of which the latter is used to make many excellent late-picked wines. Other native Austrian white grapes are Neuburger (producing nutty, dry wines) and Bouvier (a variety low in acidity and often affected by noble rot). Red wine production is dominated by three varieties: Blauer Portugieser, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. Less widely planted is Saint Laurent, which bears a resemblance to Pinot Noir.

Slovakia

Recent improvements in vinification and bottling have led to increasing numbers of exports of cheap, simple white wines from international varieties such as Pinot Blanc, as well as wines from local varieties such as easy-drinking reds from the Frankovka grape and whites from Irsay Oliver (the Hungarian Irsai Oliver), which is a Muscat cross.

Hungary

Most wines seen on international markets from Hungary are produced from inexpensive varietals of west European grapes. As well as these, there are the black grapes of Kadarka Blau, Kekfrankos (Blaufrankisch) and Kekoporto (Portugieser). For the white grapes there are Ezerjo, Furmint, Hárslevelu, Irsai Oliver and Olasz Riesling (Welchriesling).

Romania

The Romanian region with the finest reputation is Cotnari in the north east. Here, botrytis-affected sweet white wines from the local Grasa, Francusa, Feteasca Alba and Tamîioasa Româneasca grapes are produced. Elsewhere, wines destined for export tend to be produced from international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.

Bulgaria

Of all the East European wine-producing countries, Bulgaria has managed to be the most commercially successful. The reason for its success lies in the central planning of its vinification and viticulture. This resulted in mass-plantings of varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Chardonnay. Many local grape varieties have also been planted, including the black grapes of Gamza, Mavrud and Melnik and the white Misket and Dimiat. The Georgian-originating white grape, Rkatsiteli, is also common.

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