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The stunning coastal region of Campania is situated in southern Italy in the ‘shin of the boot’, and anchored by its capital of Naples. Its name comes from Campania felix, a Latin phrase roughly meaning 'fertile land', and its strong historical link to the vine (dating back to the 12th century BC) makes it one of the oldest Italian regions. The considerable influence of ancient empires, including the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines, means some of this area's varieties have historical legends attached. The area is also famous for producing Falerno (Falernum), one of the most ancient wines in Italy.
Campania champions many interesting native varieties, of which there are more than 100. They are the essential ingredients in the region's three DOCG and 17 DOC wines (Aglianico del Taburno, Aversa, Campi di Flegrei, Capri, Castel San Lorenzo, Cilento, Costa d'Amalfi, Falerno del Massico, Galluccio, Guardia Sanframondi/Guardiolo, Irpinia, Ischia, Penisola Sorrentina, Sannio, Sant'Agata dei Goti, Solopaca and Vesuvio).
The area’s prestige is centered on one red variety that has put the Taurasi DOCG in the spotlight, and three white varieties, of which two give the DOCGs Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo their names. The king of reds is the Aglianico introduced to the area by the Greeks and later cultivated by the Romans. The white protagonists are Greco, which like Aglianico was brought to Campania by the Greeks, and Fiano, which dates back more than 2000 years (its name comes from vitis apiana, meaning vine beloved of bees). The white Falanghina is also highly regarded, and is the mainstay of the Falerno del Massico and Galluccio wines. Its honeyed sweetness gained it praise as one of the finest grapes from Pliny the Elder, an ancient philosopher who often mentioned in vino veritas (there is truth in wine) in his writings.
Alongside the region’s shining stars is a plethora of little-known gems. A sampling includes Biancolella and Forastera, the backbone of the white wines of Ischia, one of the first areas in Italy to be granted DOC status. Suppezza, Sabato and Sciascinoso (locally called Olivella because of the olive-shaped grapes, and used in blends to bring a hint of color and acidity to wine) also play their part in the Sorrento Peninsula wines of Gragnano, Lettere and Sorrento. Along the Amalfi coast, the aromatic and orange blossom-infused Ravello and Furore wines are distinctive for the inclusion of interesting local Fenile, Ripolo, Pepella and Ginestra grapes. In the Aversa plains, the Asprinio variety, producing a dry white or zesty sparkling wine, gives the DOC Asprinio di Aversa its name. Finally the Coda di Volpe vine, named for its resemblance to a fox’s tail due to the way the grapes grow in long bunches, also plays a role alongside Verdeca, Greco di Bianca and Falanghina in the Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio whites.
Some varieties are nicknamed the ‘vines of fire’, thriving in the volcanic soils for which Campania is renowned. Of the reds, the most prominent is the Piedirosso (locally known as Per’e Palummo), a variety which takes its name from the gnarled red bases of the vines, conjuring up an image of the red feet of a native dove. This grape gives rise to the burnt-red color of the Campi Flegrei, Sant'Agata dei Goti, Ischia, Capri and Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio reds. Falanghina is the white ‘volcanic’ variety.
Campania’s success owes much to the varied climates and terroirs that host around 100,000 acres (46,800ha) of vines. Viticulture is in its element thanks to an abundance of sunshine, dry hot summers, mild winters, a long growing season and volcanic soil (the latter ensured phylloxera was kept at bay). The coastal Mediterranean breezes blow in from the Tyrrhenian Sea and across the Apennine Mountains to temper the heat, encouraging a bright acidity in the fruit. These factors also contribute to the varied qualities of Campania wines. For instance, an inland Falanghina grown on slopes where there is more rainfall offers more fragrant notes than those found on the coast, where the climate is continental and tends to be more mellow.
Despite being ensconced in tradition, today’s wine styles are fruit forward and youthful: the whites are known for their aromatic characters, often redolent of the local flora, while the reds (mainly from Aglianico) have big personalities which require a little ageing. Dynamic and innovative methods have helped improve the quality of Campania’s wines, specifically through better vineyard management, harvesting methods and cellar techniques. A particularly notable name in the world of Campania wine is Antonio Mastroberardino, whose pioneering use of both tradition and innovation make him the most respected, experienced and knowledgeable winemaker of the area.
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