Vesuvio’s vineyards are found on the slopes of the still active volcano, Mount Vesuvius, situated east of Naples. For years the area was disregarded as producing any quality wines, but with the influence of the highly regarded winemaker, Mastroberardino, the wines have taken off and quality is on the up. This was recognized when it was awarded its DOC status in 1983.
This DOC also carries the name Lacryma Christi (del Vesuvio) which means ‘the tears of Christ on Vesuvius’. There are many myths and legends surrounding this wine; One such legend relates the simple story of when Jesus ascended into heaven, and on casting his eyes over the beautiful Bay of Naples, he wept tears of joy, which fell upon Mount Vesuvius. Another tells of the casting out of Lucifer and the fallen angels; angry that they were forced to leave they took a piece of heaven with them, which when Lucifer fell, these bits of ‘paradise’ landed on Mount Vesuvius, leading to tears of sadness from Jesus. Another source, is that the tears of joy came from the Roman God of wine, Bacchus. All three stories lead to the fact that the tears landing on the slopes of Vesuvius resulted in vines emerging, from which Lacryma Christi is made. Whatever the story may be, this area produces some excellent and unique wines from interesting native varieties.
To be labelled Lacryma Christi, alcohol levels need to be 1 or 1.5% higher than the basic Vesuvio designation. These Lacyrma wines can be produced in several styles; red, white, rose, sparkling and liquoroso, dry or sweet. Whites must be made from Coda di Volpe (a variety derived from the ancient Roman vines of Campania Felix and reminiscent of a fox’s tail, due to the way the grapes grow in a long bunch), and/or Verdecca grapes with a minimum of 35% up to 80% being Coda di Volpe. The remaining 20% includes Falanghina or Greco di Tufo grapes. The liquoroso is made from the same blend.
Roses and reds are a minimum of 80% Piedirosso locally known as Per’e Palummo - Palombina), a variety which takes its name from the gnarled red bases of the vines, conjuring up an image of the red feet of a native dove, and/or Sciascinoso (local name Olivella). There must be no less than 50% of the total being Piedirosso, the remaining 20% being Aglianico. Whites and roses are usually produced for immediate consumption, unlike the reds which require a little age. The reds display a quintessential character of smoky, mineral flavors, derived from the volcanic soil on which the grapes are cultivated. They also take on notes of plums, raspberries and cherries, enveloped in spices such as cinnamon and white pepper.
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