2003 Penfolds Yattarna 'Bin 144' Chardonnay

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Penfolds high-end Chardonnay seems to be settling into stride, less marked by oak than in its earliest incarnations and showing more restrained fruit as well. Melon and citrus flavors are accented by hints of pencilly oak on the long finish. Good now, but should also be capable of aging a few years.

(2006) I tasted this wine in a line-up of very impressive whites when I visited the Penfolds winery in October, and thought it was the most impressive Yattarna yet. Yattarna 2003 is entirely sourced from the Adelaide Hills (whereas 2001 was 83% fruit from Tumberumba) and it saw 69% new French oak (whereas 2004 will have 0% new oak), showing a sensitivity to vintage conditions that couldn't always be found in Australian wines. This has a really meally, nutty, coffee and oatmeal nose with melon and lime fruit and a savoury character. On the palate it is a mouth-filling wine, with toasty, hazelnut characteristics and a creaminess set against pure, lemony fruit and a fine, pure core. There is some spice and a toasty richness into the long finish, but this has poise and pin-point acidity.