Champagne house G.H.Mumm is moving its non-vintage cuvée from natural cork to Diam.
The nine-million-case Cordon Rouge brand will switch from natural cork to the TCA-free technical corks initially for the Australian and New Zealand market.
Mumm's chef de caves Didier Mariotti told Wine-Searcher: “We are going to use Mytik Diam in the Cordon Rouge first for New Zealand and Australia, and then I don’t know. New World countries are more open to new closures because all the still wines don’t use cork any more, so they have a better understanding of the cork problem and want to avoid it. Europe is more old-fashioned.”
Mumm has conducted ongoing trials since 2005 using Diam, and reports no deterioration in quality. “For me there is no difference in terms of wine style with cork versus Diam,” said Mariotti.
“You have less difference from one bottle to another with Mytik Diam. Natural cork is a piece of tree and you can’t control the permeability of the cork. With Diam, because it’s like powder, you can control the permeability.”
Diam is made from cork granules that have been subjected to a "super-critical" process to eradicate cork taint. This process is also used to decaffeinate coffee and dry clean contaminated army clothing. The granules are formed into corks using a binding agent, which some producers claim can lead to a glue-like smell in the wine.
Mariotti has not found any issues: “I did the same trial with Lalou [the brand's flagship wine], Cramant [Blanc de Blancs] and the vintage [cuvée]. I have tasted all the wines and have given my full agreement to them.”
Critics have questioned the aging ability of wines under Diam but Mariotti is unconcerned. “It’s not a problem for me. Champagne, when it’s corked, should be drunk quickly – one, two or three years. For me, it’s better to age before disgorgement rather than after disgorgement.”
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