Miguel Torres Maczassek – the Global Winemaker

Where did you grow up?

I basically grew up in our Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard, Mas La Plana. My parents' house stands in the middle of this 29-hectare [72-acre] single vineyard; the winery was very close to our house, so I could go walking and pick grapes every summer. Being in the countryside was a great place to grow up; I learnt the importance of respecting nature.

So do you feel that it was inevitable that you'd join the family business one day?

I believe that when you grow up in a wine region and in a wine family like Torres, one day you realize that there is a strong sense of legacy and attachment to the vineyards – it's already part of you. It's a privilege to make a product that comes from nature and that brings enjoyment to many wine lovers around the world.

At what age did you become involved in Torres?

I was 27 – this was in 2001 – when I started managing the Jean Leon winery. Before that, I studied economics and management at ESADE University in Barcelona and enology at Tarragona University.

If you had not chosen a career in wine, what else might you have done?

Actually, before I joined the family company I worked in the perfume business. I'm not sure if I ever planned to stay with the firm long, but I do know that I enjoy creating products.

You have devoted considerable energy in building up the reputation of your Chilean brand, Miguel Torres. What developments are we going to see from Chile in 2015?

Chile is discovering its roots and I have no doubt that the Chilean wines will have a lot to say now and in the future. I think we will see some very interesting things on "regionality", on super-premium level wines, but also regarding the recovery of old varieties like Carignan and Moscatel. At Torres, we have revived the variety País, that was brought to Chile by missionaries some 400 years ago.

Any new wines on the horizon?

Yes, we will soon release the first slate-soil Pinot Noir from the Empedrado Valley. This has been a 20-year project and I hope it will show the great potential that Chile has for prestige wines. The 2011 growing season was very favorable; unfortunately the birds took a fancy to the vintage as well and ate all the berries! We now have the 2012 vintage maturing in bottle and plan to release just 200 cases.

Let's talk about Torres China for a bit. How is the Chinese market developing, in your experience?

China has changed during the last two years and it seems that it will no longer be the country of two-digit growth every year. We expect that it will perform more and more like other developed markets, where margins are lower and where there is more offer than demand. But for us China continues to be a strategic market and we are very happy with the results: a turnover of €27 million [$30m] in 2014, which is a 7 percent increase compared to 2013.

So you weren't affected by the Chinese government's highly publicized austerity drive?

During 2012 and 2013 the austerity measures affected the entire wine and spirits market in China – there was less demand in restaurants, less gifting. However, during the two past years we have seen the emergence of a new consumer that buys wine in retails outlets and supermarkets to enjoy it at home with food. So during 2014, and the first half of 2015 growth has been positive.

Why do you think that China has avoided white wine for so long?

It is probably a combination of market development, trends and the local food and wine culture. Wine consumption in China, as we know it started with red wine, as a substitute for local liquors. Also red wine is traditionally associated with better health benefits. Moreover, red is a color with a strong positive cultural significance in China, so although the demand for white might increase in the following years, I still believe red will always dominate the market.

How is your fledgling Cava project shaping up – when will you release it?

It's a very niche project, we are focusing on producing small quantities of high-quality Cava. Our roots are in the Catalonia region of Spain, and we felt that it made sense as long as we tried to produce the best Cava in the country. It will be released during 2016/2017.

But do you believe that Cava inherently has a cheap and cheerful image problem, as many critics suggest?

I believe that if your only idea is to base your strategy on the prestige of the appellation, then you have no strategy. All DOs have entry-level, mid-level and premium price segments, which can perfectly coexist as you can see in many other DOs in Spain and other countries. The basic idea behind every DO is not about pricing, it's about guaranteeing a specific origin.

Work aside, what do you like to do for fun?

Play Lego with our three children, read and walk in the mountains.

What's your favorite travel destination?

One of the islands of the Canary Islands – Gomera – is a hidden jewel. It has historical protected forests of laurisilvia, a unique place in the world.

Favorite book and film?

Conquest by Hugh Thomas. He is by far my favorite author. My favorite film is The Motorcycle Diaries.

Finally, your desert island wine choice?

Since I could be marooned for a long time, I would probably take a wine with the potential to age well: so either a Mas La Plana, a Reserva Real or a Manso de Velasco.

Prices worldwide on Wine-Searcher (US$, ex-tax, per 750-ml bottle):