Stags' Leap Winery Merlot

When everything is perfect in California you can get merlot like this, but it is rare. Rich, savoury and structured, it draws you into the glass with quiet confidence and floral, mineral notes. Plum and raspberry mark the nose, mixed with dried herbs, cedar and a wisp of oak before fairly substantial, dense, tannins fill in the back end. More St. Emilion than Napa, this will need five years of cellar time to reach its zenith. A great demonstration of the power and the finesse of the 2013 vintage. (Anthony Gismondi).

A solid, structured Merlot from winemaker Christophe Paubert. Aromas of cherry, red currant, blackberry and mild notes of spice and toffee are delivered seamlessly on the palate, with balanced tannins and acidity and a long finish with a light hint of sweet oak. Slip this one in on your Merlot-bashing friends and see if it doesn’t change their minds. Contains 3% Malbec, 3% Petite Sirah and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. (Rich Cook)

The best thing about this wonderful Merlot is balance. The winemaker has modulated the blackberry and plum fruit with earthier notes that suggest balsamic, soy-splashed sautéed beef, Portobello mushrooms and coffee. The grippy tannins and acids add a welcome touch of bitterness to the finish. With charm in addition to complexity, this Merlot will drink well for five years.

Here's the real deal in a sumptuous, elegant and complex Merlot, from a venerable Napa producer. Fully dry, this has deeply earthy, blackberry, rum and cola flavors that are wrapped in fine, ripely sweet tannins. It should gain bottle complexity over the next five years.

A stunning success for its wonderfully extracted, complex mélange of blackberry, cassis, sweet anise, plum and cured tobacco. That's what rigorous selection can accomplish in a so-so vintage. The flavors are wrapped in the rich, sweet tannins and balanced acids you'd expect from this appellation. Might age, but best now through next year.

Notes of chocolate, blackberry and plum, and a waft of French oak that adds vanilla and clove aromas. It's hard to imagine prettier tannins, at once soft and luxurious. Call it a fine example from a light vintage.

This is a seriously good Merlot. They got the fruit gorgeously ripe so that it bursts with sunny cassis and cherry flavor, and then they drenched it with high-end toasted oak. Near-perfect tannins, and just-right acidity provide the finishing touches. Elegant.

A silky, inviting wine with lush fruit centered on black cherries and red plums, with a hint of blackberry and a sprinkling of chocolate and spice. The finish is long and rich, with echoes of the opening fruit.

This wine is not showing well now because of the tannins, which shut everything down. Is there enough fruit for the long haul? I don't think so. Give it an “A” for effort, and wait for the '03.